http://ianlafo.com/patchwork-quilt/
Patchwork Quilt
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2 HANDMADE PATCHWORK HEART FABRIC Doll House Miniature Quilts NWOT $5.00 |
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D-3 FABRIC ~ 8 POINT PATCHWORK QUILT TOP CHEATER YELLOW $1.75 |
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simple blue patchwork quilt dollhouse quilt 1:12 Scale Miniature $6.50 |
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Hand Made 1″ SCALE Miniature Patchwork HEART QUILT BED SPREAD COMFORTER NEW $12.95 |
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‘PATCHWORK’ QUILT DOLLHOUSE BEDROLL BLANKET STITCH COUNTRY CABIN COLORS EUC $7.99 |
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D-1 FABRIC ~ 8 POINT PATCHWORK QUILT TOP CHEATER $1.25 |
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Doll House Patchwork Pattern Quilt 4 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ $9.99 |
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A-3 FABRIC ~ 8 POINT PATCHWORK QUILT TOP CHEATER TAN $2.49 |
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Dollhouse Handmade Miniature Patchwork Quilt in Pink &Blue Floral Holland #529 $15.99 |
Finish your Quilt With Tying
Sometimes tying a quilt seems like the very last resort to getting a quilt finished.
While hand quilters love the look of a skillfully Hand Quilted quilt, and machine quilters appreciate the beauty and complexity of fine machine quilting, tying a quilt can be equally rewarding. And those ties don’t need to be simple yarn knots with tails tied every 6 inches.
For example, take a look at some of the particularly ornate Crazy Quilts from more than 100 years ago. These gorgeous Crezy Quilts were tied, but it isn’t obvious how they were tied, since you can’t see the ties on the front; thus didn’t distract from the exquisite embroidery stitches.
On the back side of these quilts there are simple double thread tacks holding the quilt together. To achieve this, the patchwork quilt top was sewn to a foundation fabric, securing the top to the inner layer.
The backing layer is also attached to the foundation fabric in the center of the quilt, but the ties do not come through to the quilt top. By carefully pulling the needle and thread through only the backing and the foundation, the double threads could be tied on the back.
Extra work, to be certain, but clearly worth the effort in order to preserve the quality and beauty of the Crazy Quilt top.
But, What About the Patchwork Quilts of Today?
Everyone agrees that tying a quilt is much faster and generally easier than either machine or hand quilting.
Basically anyone who can hold a needle can tie a quilt and get a sense of accomplishment. All members of a congregation are invited to tie a knot in the prayer quilt, no sewing ability needed. Yarn, perle cotton or embroidery thread tied in a simple knot is perfect for that kind of quilt. When the quilts are made, the quilters place the ties in the quilts, and then the members of the congregation finish the quilts by tying the knots.
Other quilts would be ruined by either hand or machine quilting. Anyone who has seen a moderately heavily quilted quilt understands that the quilting tends to reduce the puffiness in a quilt.
If you want a puffy, fluffy quilt, using thick batting will give you that look. And tying the quilt will keep the layers together while maintaining the puffiness you want. Hand or machine quilting this type of quilt would significantly reduce the puffiness, and completely change the look of your quilt.
Many tied quilts are simply tied in the corners between the blocks, leaving the blocks as open space. Other quilts are tied in the center of each block with either yarn or perle cotton.
But, tying a quilt doesn’t need to be boring!
The best ties are washable, won’t unravel, will stay tied, and are strong enough to hold together when they are tied. Even with those considerations, why not add a little flair? Using embroidery floss or cording might be a possibility. And instead of using yarn or perle cotton, try a ribbon.
And what about adding something interesting in the tie? Sew a cute shaped button – say a train or fire truck – onto your quilt, and then tie the knot on the back of the quilt. Simply pull your thread from the back of the quilt, attach the button, and knot the thread, just as you would sew a button on a shirt.
Another possibility is a bow. Instead of just knotting your quilt tie, finish it off with a bow. Add a large button under the bow for an even more interesting look. As added safety against the bow coming untied, double knot it.
And speaking of trains, trucks and other things with wheels, make double-sided circles of fabric and sew them on to your quilt as wheels of your vehicle, attaching them just in the center. You might even add a button on top, and make the fabric circle wheel able to spin around.
If you have a lattice on your quilt top, maybe you could lay down a narrow ribbon and tie it in place with ribbon ties every few inches along the way. If you will wash the quilt or Wall Hanging, the ribbon strips might need additional stitching to secure them to the quilt top.
Where you place the ties on your quilt can be interesting, too. Just as quilters stitch their quilting to make a design, your ties can add to the design of your quilt.
If your quilt has an ocean flavor, your ties can be like birds in the sky or whiskers on a seal. A basket quilt might have bows along the handles of the baskets. And your Sunbonnet Sue might have ribbons on her hat.
Have fun with every aspect of your quilt – from sewing the blocks together to quilting the top – whether you hand quilt, machine quilt or tie your quilt, finish it so someone you love can enjoy using it.
About the Author
Penny Halgren
http://www.TheQuiltingCoach.com
Penny is the author of 9 books for beginner quilters and a self-taught quilter of more than 26 years who seeks to interest new quilters and provide them with the resources necessary to create beautiful quilts.
Need help with quilt!?
I am trying my very first quilt on my own and on instructions from a book. I have all my fabric cut squares and now I'm sewing for rows. However, I'm noticing that when I put the back rows down to the intersection of all the seats are not aligned. They are all 11×11 squares and sewn with an allocation of half of the seam. So I'm not sure why intersections are not matching. Can anyone help?
The main problem I discovered when I came across this same issue were those three areas: – I was using a fabric that was "stretch" him, and under the cloth was lying on a different voltage than the fabric top. – I was sewing the woven fabric to impose a bias, and other fabric lying on the bias of another type (a web form can change / wrinkle, and the other does not have any to give it) – I was jumping over to press the seam open (with an iron). This has usually been my downfall when sewing clothes. To solve these problems: First, it is important to pin your fabric together, either at the initial stage when you are just sewing the blocks together or when Stiching completed rows together. (If your web / blocks are wrinkled it is important to press / out before sewing). Second, its line of fabric so they are sitting in the same bias. It is important that the seams are actually 1 / 2 "allowances. (I copied an article below which deals with this issue, noting the site) If the tissue is elastic, it is necessary to "stop" and not race through seam base. You need to be aware that the fabric is being fed well and consistently through the Sewing Machine. Before sewing the rows together, it is important press the seams open. And, again, the pine rows together. If you have further questions you can message me. Good luck, and do not be discouraged. Take a little time to start with something again. ~~~~~ Http: / / www.scrapquilts.com / accurate_seams.html sew a quarter inch seam precise Before putting the pieces of machinery, is important for set up her sewing machine to sew accurate quarter inch seam, the standard seam allowance used for quilts. Unless you use a freehand method, as basic piecing, Sewing Accessories sewing needs is critical to the accuracy of the blocks. If the seams are not accurate, unlike the blocks will not align with others when it's time to assemble the quilt. Sewing variations within a block even cause problems by forming groups of identical blocks. Sewing accurate seam allowances produces sharp points, corners soft, and helps with matching quilt blocks during assembly. What happens when the seams are not accurate? We estimate the size patch on the basis of quarter-inch seams. If within blocks seams are not exact, the blocks are smaller or larger than they should and patches within them do not join as they should address how they are supposed to produce. Here is an example of a problem you might encounter if your seams are not accurate. Snowball blocks have only two seams on each side, while blocks five stars (one between the star points is not visible below). If the margins are wider than it should be – the most common problem – the star block, with its many seams, will be smaller than the snowball block. The end result – blocks, not match-up during assembly, without some tugging, distorting the bloc. Matching identical blocks is a problem when the seams are not consistent. You will have a hard time matching patches in something as simple as the nine-patch blocks and then if some of their allowances are seam quarter of an inch and others are a little more or less. adjust your quarter inch seam allowances Read basics and precision rotary cut before you start pressure to review and adjust its seams. Cut two strips of light and a dark stripe, each of 2 "wide and 4" long. Check the width. Align the edges carefully and sew the fabric together lengthwise into strips of a set, placing the dark stripe in the center and a 1 / 4 "seam allowance for all seams. Press allowances strips to the outside. Use a see-through rotary ruler to measure the dark central stripe. It should be exactly 1-1/2 "wide throughout its length. The outer bands must be exactly 1-3/4 "wide along its entire length. If the strips are not exactly sure the seams are pressed properly. Make sure that strips do not line up the edges leaving from each other when they sewed the seam. Measure the seam, from yarn to fabric edge. Are 1 / 4 "or slightly smaller or big? If everything seems to be accurate, but bandwidth is still off, you may need to adjust the way a size 1 / 4 "seam. Cut several plus two" wide strip of cloth for use in test units. Sew a new set and measure carefully after each change in the configuration of your machine. If using a 1 / 4 "foot pressure, the adjustment could be a simple matter of capacity in the posting fabric under the foot. If you've always seams with the edges of patches aligned flush with the right foot, try feeding through patches so that their edges are just slightly left of that place, to cut the seam allowance. Change the contrary, whether to increase the subsidy. Try changing the needle position. continued on link
